Documented by Romans in the 2nd century, there is no question that oysters are the classic aphrodisiac. While there is a lot to be said for their high zinc and iron content, which are important for sexual health, the real power of oysters lies in how they look and feel. Oysters look like some certain part of the female body, and when eaten raw, have a slippery, seductive feel in the mouth and throat.
It's also believed that oysters let a person experience both the masculine and feminine sides of love because some oysters change their gender from male to female and back again through their lifetime. I guess that'll work if you're spending Valentine's Day alone.
This week, the Los Angeles Times Food section touches on every corner of the world:
Zakuski is the Russian version of tapas, made just for vodka. The recipes are Spinach Pkhali, a dip, Salad Olivier, Quick Khachapuri (Georgian cheese pie), Eggs stuffed with caviar, and Smoked salmon and shiitakes on toast.
From Japanese cuisine, there is shiso, with recipes for Broiled citrus with shiso, Italian tuna and shiso sandwich, and Angel hair pasta with fresh shiso-herb mix.
On the restaurant scene, SIV goes Italian and gives Melograno two stars (**), while Linda Burum adds Ecuadorean at El Caserio in Silver Lake.
I love Spanish tapas, those small dishes of food served by the dozen as you sip wine or hard cider and talk the night away. Of all the types I have had, hot or cold, meat, fish or vegetable; my favorite are the marinated white anchovies called boquerones. Now these are not the typical salty and fishy anchovies the people love or hate to have on pizza. They are a totally different kettle of fish.
Fans of ceviche, or anything vinegary or with olive oil will love them. Of all the brands I have tried, my favorite is Benfumat from Barcelona. The delicate, small white anchovies harvested in the Bay of Biscay between Spain and France are carefully filleted and headed and tailed. Then they are flattened by heavy stones to mature and firm up the flesh. Then the anchovies are rinsed in brine, rolled up inside cotton cloth, and centrifuged to remove any excess water before being packed in the finest Spanish oil and white wine vinegar. Simple ingredients: white anchovies, oil, vinegar, and salt. But the taste is anything but simple.
Some boquerones are way too salty or have too much vinegar and not enough olive oil. Benfumat's have the perfect balance between the three. Typically boquerones are served draped over a thin slice of baguette or rolled around an olive. They are also great laid on top of a salad of fresh tomatoes or greens, and are a wonderful accompaniment to any dish that could use a bit of tangy, salty goodness. A small 15-30 gram serving is plenty and full of healthy omega-3's, but light on calories with only 25-50. I pan sauteed some fat, sweet, local sea scallops the other day; and then curled a boquerone on top of each and finished them in a very hot oven for a few minutes. The combination of sweet, caramelized scallops and the slightly tart boquerones went together fabulously.
After a year of food (and toy) safety problems on their record including tainted seafood, the Chinese government is instituting programs and regulations to restore confidence in the safety of their seafood exports. Among the measures are a crackdown on the use of illegal antibiotics that have been shown to cause cancer and a focus on pollution and water-quality problems.
Let's hope they get it together, since much of the world has to turn to China's land-based fish farms as ocean waters become increasingly depleted by overfishing.
